& also the camsisole & a second pair of underpants, using butterick 6031, but those were both big fails, so i can’t say i unlocked any achievements there.
i already wrote a little about this stuff in a previous post, but this is the details post. i drafted the tap pants myself, in an effort to have something modest-ish to wear underneath dresses, so i don’t get arrested if a gust of wind blows my skirt up. they turned out pretty well. definitely wearable, though i drafted a new pattern (yet to be sewn) because i decided i wanted a higher rise, & i wasn’t 100% in love with the crotch curve on these. i mean, it’s fine. it could just be better. i was definitely freehanding it with the drafting, with the end result being that the back of the pants is nearly identical to the front. i’d prefer something a little shapelier in the back, to accommodate things like butts.
but i have worn these under dresses & even as hot weather pajamas around the house & they’re great. the legs, including lace, are a little less than four inches long, which is perfect for me. the fabric is 40 denier tricot (i got mine from fabric.com, it’s still available) & it is delightfully cool & silky. it was also quite easy to sew with a stretch needle. some reviews on fabric.com complained that the color bled. i was nervous about that, because i didn’t pre-wash. but i didn’t have any bleeding. after a couple of washes, my white lace is just as white as ever.
i did kind of screw up stitching the waistband elastic. the thing about sewing elastic is that you need to pull it through the machine both front & back, & i forgot to pull from the back, so my stitches are all over the place. luckily i got my act together before i had to turn the elastic in, so it’s only the stitches on the inside that are janky. the ones on the outside look great.
the underpants are butterick 6031. i loooooooove them. so comfy. i want to make 10,000 more pairs. for best results, this pattern requires fabric with a fair amount of stretch. this tricot has 50% stretch. & remember to cut your stretch lace to fit the fabric. don’t stretch while you sew. it’s worth noting that the directions with the pattern are a little muddled when it comes to attaching the lace. i simply overlapped the lace & the fabric by a quarter-inch & sewed with a 2mm square zigzag. easy enough.
oh, also: i wasn’t sure how these underpants were going to fit because the technical drawing doesn’t really match the sample on the model on the envelope.
see how the illustration looks more like bikini panties, but the model in the peach get-up seems to be wearing boy shorts? well, the finished result for me was much more like boy shorts, which was great, because that’s what i wanted.
& here are my fails. same butterick 6031 underpants, & the longer camisole from that same pattern. the fails are my own fault.
with the underpants, i was confused about how to attach the lace. i took a chance on stretching to fit, & i also sewed it so the top edge of the lace overlapped the fabric, & i stitched along the bottom edge of the lace. then i trimmed away the excess fabric under the lace. the final result was underpants that were just too small. i was flummoxed by the directions & simply made all the wrong choices.
with the camisole, i was attempting to grade between sizes, but i was a dummy who cut the top of the camisole according to my high bust (as you might with a dress, in order to get the shoulders to fit). obviously a camisole doesn’t have shoulders that need to be fitted, & my idiocy resulted in a garment that barely fit over my rack & is unfixable.
the construction is pretty fun! the pattern comes with cup sizes, with bust darts for shaping. after you sew the dart, you cut away the excess fabric & topstitch. it’s a fun challenge to make the darts absolutely perfect with no wobbles or puckers. mine came out great. too bad it doesn’t fit.
you are also instructed to add 1/8″ elastic to the underside of the stretch lace at the tops of the cups, to help hold them to your body. this was also kind of a fun challenge, sewing something so narrow & fiddly to something so stretchy & fussy, & having to follow a curve in the process. i think mine came out really well…too bad about the fit. i imagine a person could probably use clear elastic here if they wanted?
not that it mattered in the long run, since this wasn’t going to fit no matter what, but i also cut the body panels for the camisole on the cross-grain by accident. the tricot i had was almost a perfect square & i just wasn’t thinking clearly about which way the stretch should go. (obviously it should be traveling horizontally around your body instead of vertically from bust to hem.) whoops.
i do plan to try this camisole again, because i think it would be the perfect complement to tap pants as summer pajamas. so i will hold off on making any final decisions about how i feel about the pattern until i get a chance to sew it up properly.
i’m almost recovered from my latest illness & looking forward to hitting the sewing machine again soon. i cut out the pattern pieces for a new purse this morning, & i have a lot of other projects on the go, including a swimsuit of my own design!